A weekend in Makhanda: Stories that stir the soul

SALT performed at the 2025 National Arts Festival. Picture: Supplied

They say time flies when you're having fun, but “fun” doesn’t even begin to describe what I experienced at the 2025 National Arts Festival this past weekend in Makhanda. What unfolded wasn’t just entertaining, it was moving, jarring, liberating, and, at times, downright soul-shaking. 

From poetic monologues and powerful dance pieces to emotionally-charged theatre, each performance offered more than just entertainment. It was a weekend of confronting hard truths, celebrating bold artistry, and experiencing, time and again, the transformative power of the arts.

To kick things off, I had the privilege of experiencing SALT by Cape Ballet Africa, a captivating showcase of original South African choreography by Mthuthuzeli November, Kirsten Isenberg, and Michelle Reid.

The production featured bold, original works that explored emotional depth, rhythmic power, and creative flair, complemented by the classical elegance of George Balanchine’s Allegro Brillante, staged by Diana White. 

From Isenberg’s dreamy Reverie to November’s dynamic Chapter Two and Reid’s jazz-infused Smoke, SALT was a stunning fusion of tradition and innovation that set the tone for an unforgettable festival experience.

Following this, I immersed myself in Road, a dance piece performed by Oscar Buthelezi and Muzi Shili. It explored the metaphorical and literal roads we travel as human beings, the detours, the shared moments, the burdens we carry, and the triumphs we sometimes barely notice.

The physical storytelling was so profound that it transcended language, giving space to a deep, shared emotional understanding between the performers and the audience. Road has already received six awards in Germany and one in South Africa, and it’s easy to see why. Its brilliance lies in its simplicity and its ability to make you see yourself reflected in its themes.

Road performed at the 2025 National Arts Festival. Picture: Supplied

Then came Messy. And what a bold, hilarious, and thought-provoking experience that was. Written and performed by Samantha Carlisle and directed by Dara Beth, Messy is a semi-autobiographical solo show about Sam, an online sex worker navigating the chaos of sex, love, and intimacy in the modern age.

It’s a bold, unapologetically honest piece of theatre that draws you into the world of a woman fearlessly exploring sexual liberation in a culture that continues to silence women’s pleasure. Carlisle shapeshifts into a multitude of characters, from an ill-equipped Afrikaans sex-ed teacher to an array of unimpressive lovers she has encountered along her journey.

Her performance is electric, provocative, and unexpectedly moving. She confronts the audience with uncomfortable truths about orgasms, misogyny, emotional detachment, and the wild world of online sex work, all while making us laugh through the awkwardness. The honesty in Messy is what makes it liberating, especially for women, as it opens up a necessary conversation about bodily autonomy and pleasure without shame.

After the comic relief of Messy, Daddy’s Diary brought a more sombre, introspective tone. This theatre piece is a moving dedication to all fathers who love deeply but are driven to the edge by the devastations of divorce.

Messy performed at the 2025 National Arts Festival. Picture: Supplied

Told through the lens of two daughters searching for truth and healing, the story unpacks the silence, the secrets, the broken bonds, and a father’s final attempt at reconciliation through his diary. It’s a deeply emotional narrative about love, regret, and missed opportunities. 

But the show that shook me to my core was Isilwane Esimnyama (The Black Beast), written and directed by Abednigo Dhlamini.

To call Isilwane Esimnyama intense would be an understatement. This three-hander was a haunting, spine-chilling tribute to Uyinene Mrwetyana, the young student who was brutally murdered in 2019 at a Cape Town post office.  The “beast” in this piece embodies the relentless epidemic of gender-based violence that continues to plague our society.  The story unfolds through a powerful blend of ritual, physical theatre, poetic dialogue, and spiritual evocation.

We meet Uyinene as a vibrant, spirited young girl, full of dreams. We witness the moment she realises her life is about to end at the hands of a man she trusted to hand her a parcel. The scene is devastating. Her screams, her pleas, and the eerie, tormented cries of the beast still echo in my mind. The performance is not just storytelling, it’s protest, it’s mourning, it’s remembrance. The supernatural presence on stage calls Uyinene’s spirit back, acknowledging that her death has become a catalyst for change, despite the justice system failing so many.

At one point, Uyinene’s spirit begs to see the face of her killer. But the spirit guide asks, “And then what? What would you say to him?” The question reverberated through the theatre. What can we say when our futures are stolen? When women in South Africa are not safe, not in the streets, not in their homes, not even in a post office?

The props, which include the fire and incense, all served as powerful rituals of remembrance and resistance. The scene where the beast is tormented by his own guilt was so visceral that I could barely breathe. The performance ends not with answers, but with a cry, "Stop killing us". A plea. A demand. A protest. 

Isilwane Esimnyama performed at the 2025 National Arts Festival. Picture: Supplied

Leaving Makhanda, I felt emotionally full yet emotionally spent. The National Arts Festival reminded me of the power of art not just to entertain, but to heal, to agitate, and to transform. Each piece I watched added a new dimension to the conversation, whether about love, loss, sex, or survival. I came for the stories, but I left with echoes that I will carry for a long time.

The National Arts Festival continues this week, offering more riveting storytelling, music, laughter, art exhibitions, and all things creative. The festival runs until 6 July.

For more information and to purchase tickets, visit: https://nationalartsfestival.co.za.